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【中国国际时装周】-【方言】生活在左・林栖发布会-【视频】

2020-11-10 01:59:59

茫茫宇宙,自盘古开天辟地以来,从声音,到语言,至语系,人类历经沧海桑田,在数代人的迁徙和生活中,形成了宇宙间最美妙的文化之一:方言。方言,是最古老、最形象、最生动的财富,它属于我们每一个人,并且世世代代用无形的记录和传承,让文化连接了过去、现在、以及更久远的未来。

  2018年3月31日,女装品牌生活在左将亮相中国国际时装周。生活在左用曼妙的时装语言及淳朴的手工艺诠释其品牌特征:“‘乱花渐欲迷人眼’的崭新世界里,生活在左关心并探索与人类相关的一切,追溯来源于宇宙之初的人文之美,包容个体差异与不同的文化性格,并鼓励传统与现代融合和创新”。本季,生活在左以一个保护者和传承者的姿态联合中国24位手工艺艺术家与传承人,共同呵护中国传统文化,打造全新的中国品牌形象。另外,生活在左邀请了加拿大著名现代舞艺术家XINGBANG FU与中国五弦琵琶年轻艺术家马思雨老师进行现代即兴表演,两位艺术家与方言的秀场演出,不刻意关联,完全以独立的演出营造全场三个不同的欣赏空间,通过自己的肢体语言和指间的弹挑语言,结合现代舞与古典五弦琵琶的艺术形式,与生活在左的设计师共同奉献一场全新的中式时装秀。

  天地间慢慢酝酿而造就的声音,蕴藏着不为人知的宝藏。

  2018秋冬中国国际时装周, 生活在左以《方言》为主题,通过寻找目前在中华民族不同地区的方言特色,结合了多种中国国家非遗传承人的特殊地域性手艺和文化性格,将不可复制的中国美学以“多样性”和“源头”作为设计灵感进行新系列设计,并从传统语言传递别样艺术之美,将其视觉化,赋予语言更多美学气息。

  用“南音之地”、“吴侬软语“、”京腔京语“、“无字天书”四个系列划分出中国不同人文风情和生活习俗,提取不同的手工艺风格特征,传递不同地区的方言文化,唤醒现代人心底的最初记忆。东方之美的古典流线型剪裁也别有心裁地诠释中国国画中毛笔与纸张之间“线”的思维方式,以“线”在身体上呈现出动态与静态停留的状态,将面料最大限度得到保留,这也是品牌对于当下中国“能源与消费”的反思。以美妙生动的细节帮助主体衣服保持整体,探讨“方言”本身进化和衍变中的独立和融合的过程,更是对中国不同地区方言文化本身“个体”和“整体”的思考。

  将文化融合为一,使其连接过去、现在、以及更久远的未来。

  生活在左以传统文化和传统手工艺为出发点,与中国蓝印花布传承人吴元新老师、中国天然染色传承人黄荣华老师、中国竹编传承人李加云老师、中国国画染料仇庆年老师、中国昆曲年轻艺术家施夏明老师等多位中国手工艺术家,共同赋予中国美术、中国曲艺、中国民艺的智慧与美丽,为新系列增添立体而生动的中国性格。

  结合品牌长期对于轻松灵动的高明度低饱和度色彩的偏爱,在黄荣华老师的指导下,设计师选择了更多的传统色和传统杭缎印染工艺,既保留了历史的厚重,也呈现出现代的轻盈,设计师将东方美学中“动与静”的哲学思维,模糊界限,将现代和传统的材质、传统和现代的色彩,合并为一。在服装纹样上,设计师融合了传统与现代风格的纹样,并研究开发出:“天书”、“地心”崭新的专属纹样, 这也是生活在左传统生活研究所成立以来,对于“传统和现代”的生活思考,以及“过去,现代和未来”的思考。因此,本次设计师将呈现出“纵横交错”又“错落有致”的现代服装作品,带领观众回归生活最初。

 

Human has formed one of the most wonderful cultures in the universe: dialect after the generations of migration and life since Pan Gu created the universe in the Chinese mythology, from voice, to language, to language system. Dialect is the oldest, the most iconic, and the most vivid wealth. It belongs to each one of us and allows culture to connect the past, present, and the more distant future with intangible records and inherence from generation to generation.


On March 31, 2018, A Life On The Left, a women's wear brand will appear on China International Fashion Week. It uses the spectacular fashion language and simple handicraft for interpreting its brand attributes: "In this disorderly and charming new world, A Life On The Left cares about and explores all related to human, traces the beauty of humanity from the beginning of the universe, is compatible for individual differences and different cultural personality, and encourages the traditional and modern fusion and innovation". This season, A Life On The Left, with the identity of a protector and inheritor, organizes China's 24 handicraft artists and inheritors to jointly protect the Chinese traditional culture and create a fully new Chinese brand image. In addition, it invited XINGBANG FU, a famous Canadian modern dance artist, and Teacher Ma Siyu, a Chinese young artist of the five-string lute (PIPA) to carry out modern improvisational performance. The performance of the two artists and Dialect show are not deliberately connected and create three different appreciation spaces with completely independent performance. Their body language and playing language in fingers, in combination with the art forms of modern dance and classical five-string lute, and the designer of A Life On The Left together present a new fashion show of the Chinese style.

 

The voice that is brewing between heaven and earth contains unknown treasure.


On the 2018 A/W China International Fashion Week, A Life On The Left, with "Dialect" as the theme, carries out the design of new series with "diversity" and "source" of the Chinese aesthetics as the design inspiration, by looking for the dialect features in different regions of China, and combining a variety of special regional craftsmanship and cultural characters of the Chinese intangible cultural heritage inheritors, Also it conveys the beauty of art with the traditional languages, and puts more aesthetics on the language based on visualization.


Four series, "South Dialect in Fujian", "Soft Dialect in Shanghai”, “Beijing Dialect", and "Text-free Dialect ", are classified to describe the different cultural customs and life customs in China, by extracting different craftsmanship styles and features, transferring the dialect cultures in different regions, and awakening the original memory of the modern persons on their bottom of heart. With the oriental beauty, the classical streamline tailoring also distinctly interprets the thinking way of "lines" between a brush and paper in the traditional Chinese painting. It is also the introspection of the brand for the current "energy and consumption" in China to present the dynamic and static states with "lines" on the body and preserve the fabrics to the greatest extent. It is ever the "individual" and "whole" thinking of the dialect culture itself in the different parts of China to help to keep main clothes overall with beautiful vivid details, and explore the process of independence and integration of "dialects" themselves in their evolution and development.

 

Integrating the cultures into one and connecting to the past, present, and further future.


A Life On The Left starts from the traditional culture and traditional arts and crafts, and together with the Chinese handwork artists such as Teacher Wu Yuanxin, the Chinese blue calico inheritor, Teacher Huang Ronghua, the Chinese natural dyeing inheritor, Teacher Li Jiayun, the Chinese bamboo weaving inheritor, Teacher Qiu Qingnian, the Chinese traditional painting dye inheritor, and Teacher Shi Xiaming, the young Chinese Kunqu Opera artist, jointly endow the Chinese fine art, Chinese opera art, and Chinese folk art with wisdom and beauty, and add three-dimensional and vivid Chinese character for the new series.

Combined with long-term preference of the brand for easy clever colors with high lightness and low saturation, under the guidance of Teacher Huang Ronghua, the designer chose the more traditional colors and traditional Hangzhou Satin printing and dyeing process, both retaining the historical messiness and presenting the modern lightness. The designer made the dynamic and static philosophy thinking in the oriental aesthetics with fuzzy boundaries, and merged the modern and traditional material, and the traditional and modern colors. In terms of clothing texture and pattern, the designer integrated the traditional and modern patterns, and researched and developed the fully new exclusive patterns of "God Book" and "Earth Core". This is the thinking of the "traditional and modern life" and also the "past, modern and future" since the establishment of the A Life On The Left Institute of Traditional Life. Therefore, the designer presents the "crisscrossed" and "staggered" modern clothing works and leads the audience return back to the origin of life this time.

历史秀场回顾


【特别鸣谢:44】